Brazil --- This adventure

"And if we do not go this year in Brazil?" , I thought. The idea seemed very attractive and I immediately proceeded to the most enjoyable part of any trip-training. About Brazil, I knew that there Rio de Janeiro, where all go to the white pants, with a multitude of Amazon haired monkeys, and the Jaguars dlinnohvostymi bronenosnymi turtles, and that a well-played soccer. Internet hurled at me flow of information carefully perelopativ that I realized that in Brazil there are five places that I want to see: Rio de Janeiro, the Amazon jungle, savannah Pantanal, Iguazu waterfalls and Merry beach town Salvador (not to be confused with the country of El Salvador). And it turned out that Brazil is a great country and all of these places are quite far apart. If the shift is at stake is the former USSR, we had to visit Moscow, Almaty, Kyzylkum desert, North Karelia, and South Yakutia. In two weeks of leave does not vmeschalos. After long mental terzany I have decided that cheerful cities and elsewhere is not enough and lucky to El Salvador.
Left only to select hotels, tours, flights and aircraft interface transplant, which has been spent and another four working days.



And, finally, we are in Brazil. Airplane priletal huge metropolis in San Paolo, where we had to climb on the return journey to the city with a name Ciuaba (the Pantanal). Go, in the background trying to find out where the plane is at Siuabu, one does not understand me. Had to write, only then realized. But from where I could know that Ciuaba pronounced as "Cuiaba" with the accent on the last syllable?

In Kuyabe we met a tour guide named Lewis, is a European species with excellent English and zagipsovannoy legs. Said that this is his horse hit. He put us in the van and Prikhodko in the Pantanal. Drive three hours there. Pantanal-something like the reserve, not obezobrazhennogo civilization. Nature-around shroud, a vast plains with groves of trees and shrubs. Huge quantities of a variety of birds and animals, including dikovinnyh storks and savannah Falcon. Our hotel called Araras. " "Ara" in Portuguese big beautiful parrot. Indeed, the tree sat on the family parrot. The brochure claimed that they are more than thirty, but we saw only 8-9. Yeshe mangovoe there was a large tree, which was nailed buffalo skull. It looked like a large ranch.

Guess what we most like after 14 hours in the air, so four in the car? Correctly-see wild monkeys. It proved that there is a ten-minute walk a wooden observation tower near where the family lived "voyushih obezyan (howling monkeys, the so-called rock). Indeed, the branches lying healthy black male, and a number of maneuvers and red female calves. We are not drawn any attention. Then we told them that the so-called because they are in the morning before the rain loud pitting. Fortunately the weather was standing miraculously and no one in the morning we do not Schwarzenegger.
When we came around kopibary ranch cows. This is the largest rodents in the world. They look like hamsters, but the growth zone for me. Leave begun.

Although the ranch was twenty rooms than we had only one pair, two from Belgium devochki-kitayanki yes then there are a couple of tourists from Germany. Cooks, this does not seem to stop people, the food supply at 20. Every day, five-piece snacks, two or three different kinds of meat with garnish, several Pirogov. And all terribly delicious (and free). Timetable as a stand-in the village in June, swelling zavtrakali, was driving somewhere, returned by noon, eating, sleeping up to three, drank tea with cakes, talked with Lyusom about life, go somewhere again, in seven lunch with the dark place undue sleep. That sounds cruel, but on the second day to such a routine privykaesh well. Lyus has umneyshim educated man, in their free time reading Camus and Nietzsche and a guide who works for the soul. "

Lewis Prikhodko morning we watch the local flora and fauna in an open truck. Along the road sat protected birds, characterizing local fox, kopibary, dark line of the Monkey, in all waters kaymany Mazirbe. Overall, it was just like in Brazil. One way we Tapir moved, but I did not have time to photograph him. At the bushes grow cashew nuts. They look as Bulgarian pepper, which grows at the end of the nut itself. The fruit is very tasty, sweet and watery, it makes confectionery and fruit. Milo decided that every nut, you should eat it, and immediately nadkusila vyplyunula. Walnut has been bitter and obzheg mouth. When burning sensations than half an hour passed appealed to Lewis. He said that there could be keshyu only after processing, it is very poisonous and if not soon polegchaet will need to go to hospital.
I recall: to civilization and the hospital was four hours away. Fortunately, after an hour Mile, it's easier and we have decided to do without the hospital. Only by the evening, we noticed that on the chest, which Mila, seemingly held their hands, there are clear traces of burns.

The next day we went to the canoe ride through and catching pirany. The entire Pantanal littered channels, streams and rivers. In the rainy season, this is all turning into one large lake, but we came closer to the end of the dry season and the water level was low. The road was to channel all in ditches and baths, so for our truck was driving a tractor and vytalkival us of a particularly large puddles.
On the water, it was quiet, calm and umirotvorenno. By the shores of the channel reminders kaymany and looked tenderly at us. Kaymany-variety alligators, only some space. The largest is about two meters. People are too big for food, so attacking people kaymany extremely rare. In a quiet place at the coast, we came to the Cayman kindergarten. Directly in water clash with giving malenih kaymanchikov. Somewhere near proshumelo herd of wild pigs, a baker, which, as Lewis said, to meet mortally dangerous. Returning to the scene of parking, we found that we are waiting for lunch, cooked local Indian. For the five people he has prepared for ten pieces of beef ribs, Ovine side, chicken without accounts, a complete pelvis chopped watermelon and melon with something still there. Above their heads and clash marmosety enough deferred to the pieces of fruit.



After lunch, I asked whether Lewis can swim here. He said that if the blood does not go anywhere, it should not disturb piranhas, but warned that I should not have raised legs when highly go to the bottom, and then you can come to the Cayman.

Well, since this could prevent not go into the water? Of course, I immediately climbed. And then at the same location, we caught pirany. Seems so. Take the rod, the hook is attached to a piece of raw meat, zabrasyvaetsya, ten seconds dish, CIA hangs on the Piranha. If Hook had deeply withdraw, the majority, and if the meat surface sozhrali, the smallest. But even with a small sharp teeth, so they removed the hook with a special boy.
His only a Piranha ishtrilas fuels. Of the catch, we prepared a wonderful soup, and several of the largest pieces. Quite tasty.


The next program was skating on savannas on horseback. Horses were Argentine, and manage low, it was not needed because the film shows, and keep povodya in one hand and move them as a stick.
My horse, nicknamed The President, frankly, with all walked together, but I quickly became fed up and I try to force it to ride gallop. Neither in Russian or English and did not understand President Lewis is not yet issued me a magic wand (srezany bush with wire) case is not going. But as soon as I fix fingers and turned it on cereals, the President pulled ahead and became such a speed dial, as if it depended on whether the queen its suspension in time. I have only thought about that dance in the saddle and not fall somewhere termitary, which vidimo-nevidimo savannah. Knight finally fed up and he went jogging. Trustsa is when the saddle at each step Above plant and painful strikes Guess than saddle. They say you should sit up in the saddle at each step. I tried. Prisedany so much, I do not. Painful had to hold seats left hand. It may go from here to keep the custom povodya in one arm?
Another trip was to the giant otter (Giant otters). They have very few and they are from the Red Book, but we sailed willingly and almost took the fish from the hands.
Lewis took us to the airport and we exchanged addresses, rasproschalis. He said that we are the first Russian tourists it faced. I immediately thought there was cheaper to build tourism from Russia to Brazil.
But, as happens with many good ideas, it has become a piece of my road to hell.
Ahead were the Amazon jungle.

Building the airport in Cuiaba, it was quite standard, but boots, as in the States, no one is not required to withdraw. In fact, there was no inspection. No. Even the metal detector. Just announced flight, passengers stood and went to the plane.
Although the Amazonas province is the largest city in Brazil, where only one-Manaus. There we had to fly to Brazil transplants in the city (the capital of Brazil). We flew at midnight, arrived at the hotel, seven in the morning and we have already arrived for a regular guide to where to take us to be there for the next three days. Most tourists stay around Manausa wing and did not see anything, but I was interested in going away wildlife. It must be clear that hotels in the Pantanal and Amazon immediately sell package. The package includes delivery, housing, all meals, all excursions and tour guide. None of the services of tourist agencies in planning trips, I never take, all preferring to organize themselves and the Agency by phone already ready route.

The guide this time was a true Indian Gayany of this Indian named John. Pro Camus (see previous chapter), he knew nothing, but knew all about the local environment. We loaded in the van and was fortunate to shore Amazon. There, we peregruzilis begin on the boat and on the other coast (30 minutes). The middle of the river crossed the famous place "Summit waters." At this point Amazon River and Rio Negro merge together, but because the water in varying temperatures and densities, they flow next few kilometers are not breeding. The water in these rivers in different colors, so it is very well illustrated. On the other bank put us back in the car, Yeshe 40 minutes before carrying a wharf and there boarded a routine motorized boat. Three hours in a motorized boat on the broad and narrow Amazon tributaries, and we have the goal. The aim was "Juma Lodge" and stood on the islet on high stilts. High piles were needed because the level of water in the rainy season s raised by 8 meters. At the top of the high trees visible traces of semi stay in the water and the low hiding under water completely.

Incidentally, the Amazon River is not specific clearly profiled shores, and the whole complex of rivers, streams and river pours in each other. No Way to the Amazon and could not be otherwise. There are islands of various sizes, which sometimes live local residents. All-only movement on the water. At one islet-school in the morning which collects children submarine duty, to another church ...

The hotel was very comfortable having only eight pairs, with large rooms. Apart from us there was only a pair of the England tour guide, and three servants apes living on the island. Two, it was one species, which do not remember, and one, named Joel-other. Joel did to me, as soon as we left the boat, and disrupted glasses with me. You never tried to stay close to the monkey when you glasses? And do not bother. Hunting for my glasses, it steadily, distracted only to try my cream of tanning.
After lunch we behaved in the jungle. John prorubal way machetes, showed in different trees, and said: bark of this tree are locals zavarivayut of headache, and to eat fruits that abortion ... With great difficulty managed to find a tree that local or which do not use. We ran into two types Amazonian ants. Some very small, there must be an arm on the tree, so that they choked her, and then they have to rub o. This local funds from mosquitoes. Others are large with a very painful bite. In one Indian tribe to be known as men and have the right to marry must be tested ten times a hand pump in rukavitsu with these ants. Guide said that not all endure. Then John found some cones and very pleased. Said that they sat larvae are very tasty and are considered local delicacy. Ate one is a pleasure and invited us all. I tried, the rest refused. Not betrayed, really tasty, like a nut.

Of the large animals we saw monkeys just so different birds. I asked all printed and anacondas, but the tour guide said that they have seen otehat deep into the jungle for a couple of days. There is a special multiple routes for jungle, and there they can meet. (The idea of an attractive, but have a good group match). At Amazon animals much smaller than Pantanale, but this is offset by stunning jungle species.



The next day we went dark to dawn encounter on the river. Quietness, slowly raises the sun, rotates birds wake up, go for morning overflight parrots with curiosity pogyadyvaya on our boat, the fish jumps out of the water, sometimes showing local variety dolphin ...

After breakfast, went to watch as the Aborigines live. Aborigines are descendants of whites, blacks, Indians peremeshavshiesya for many generations. This is not the Indians. Before these Indians have to sail a boat a couple of weeks, and to go to them, they need to ask permission through a special agency FUNAI, which seeks to protect Americans from the outside world. Check in advance to tell them what a gift going to bring (such as a motorized boat). Then may solve. If travel without permission, it picks and murder. And anything to them for that would not be.
Aborigines lived on the shore in wooden barracks on foot. Inside was a small kitchen with a gas stove and a lot of empty space. There, at night they hang their hammocks. Glazing in the window would not be just shutters that sealed against rain. Around grow any edible and medicinal trees, chickens and children hate. The family was taken extremely important - cleansing cassava. These are the tubers of mind similar to potatoes, all of them doing anything manna from cereals to seasonings. John said that they must To prior to the rainy season, because it is the rainy season, the active life of the occupation ceases, and most of the time they spend in the hammock listening to rain. It looked exactly like the "Club Kinoputeshestvy" I went with the eye of the camera and felt themselves Senkevich. Everything was so surprising that I ever thought that once we give them a couple dollaraov and leave, Aborigines immediately zabrosyat its cassava, odenut jeans, and the players will go into McDonalds hidden in the bushes.

The evening went again catching pirany. Piranha in the Amazon, most other than the Pantanale-and much more black. John said that they were more aggressive, although we were told Pantanale quite the contrary. Taste of Pantanalkih they are no different.

Morning vzbodrivshis Guarani (Guarani-a white powder, which pours water and drink. Kafeina it several times more than coffee), we went in the opposite way to motorke-mashine-katere in Manaus. Local highly recommended manausky go to the market, but nothing interesting there is not. Poshatalis the city and flew to Rio de Janeiro, to the sea, beaches and Sambe.

And here we are, pereschegolyav great kombinatora, arrived in Rio, a city of song, in which "15 million, and all in white pants." In white pants, it is true, was only one person, I am. We settled at the beach with no less remarkable title-Copacabana. Beach is along the bay, as a large semi-Baku Boulevard (from readers who know what I mean?) . Where he ends begins next semi-Ipanema.

Rio looks like this: Ocean are several parallel streets with decent houses and hotels, then immediately begin mountains. On the slopes are favelly-poor villages. Slopes heavily littered with small, polurazvalivshimisya houses, almost prikleennymi each other. Many favellah kommanduet Mafia trial and there can be no exit. Rio 80% of employees living there.

In Rio, you can:

1. Lie on the beach. Beaches beaten people, under the nick. Local residents spend every free minute on the beach resort immersion in lunchtime and after work, play beach volleyball and football, even under heavy rain. Previously, the city of Rio was unsafe, but now tourist police at every corner and not be afraid of robberies. But petty theft thrive, especially on the beach. Therefore, in the heart of the city can be routinely found in some fusion man with the key to reaching the beach neck. On the beach continuous flow of ants in the jungle, is available to all sellers of light, from shrimp on sticks to the carpet. Noting podbegayut and think they are beginning to offer its hard goods price aiming at intervals of five seconds. Absolutely all women in bikini, regardless of the figure, age and month of pregnancy. Others in the Rio suits no. Especially beautiful women, I did not notice, but local men Bhamra. Smuglye, coherent, muskulistye. Perhaps it is the result of day-to-day football on the beach.

2. Swim in the ocean. No water is too clean and waves. In Brazil, there are many more beach towns of Rio.

3. There. I mean really. Restaurants in Rio at every step and is very tasty. But the most best-Mario and Mario Crustaceous. "Mario" is a Brazilian steakhouse. This means that you are sitting, and you have the vertelah all types of meat in turn-of lamb strausyatiny before, and yet you will have no mercy on vzmolishsya and not incur logged stomach to the rack with vkusneyshimi desserts. Such restaurants have in the world, but "Mario" especially tasty. But such as "Mario Crustaceous" I have not seen anywhere else. The idea is the same, but the fish restaurant. On the desk are 50 species of any seafood, and waiters are at vertelah lobster, fish, etc. There, I first tried in the sea urchin. Take it yourself at the plate, but as it is, is unclear. Verchu in his hands, as in the anecdote about a bear and kolobka ( "where you say it?") . Finally waiters pity, and has claimed the Dollar has been cut. Taste milk as a herring. The appalling stuff, but I can say that tried sea urchin. Everything else, amazingly delicious. And after dessert, port and cigars good life is generally excellent.


4. You can fly to popular. I, of course, could not keep, but never tried before. We have to be a fly - tandem hang-glider instructor manages, and I derzhus for his shoulders. We were taken away from the hotel and brought to the mountain covered with a solid fog. On the slope was built wooden platform surrounded by white milk. It was, I must count quickly enough to recruit the desired speed and jump at the end. If I thought that it is nowhere to jump from there, I just was not for me and wanted to bottom. Trainer said that the fog around the mountains and only we proletim immediately, and that we poletim consequence once the fog is so that you can see the sea. We pristegnulis hang-glider and began to wait. Fog is not dissipating. Ten minutes, I decided that easily completely, depicting sad person and proposed to move on tomorrow. There was worthless. As soon as the instructor felt that the earnings strength, he screamed that sees the sea and ran forward. I neither saw not only the sea, but even parts of the glider, but remember that the need for a flight speed dialing, introduced that maybe if I start his stall and ran spryly next. The moment when I have not fled, and flew, I had not even noticed. Through the fog we, in fact, flew overnight and flew over Mount. A sense of flight is difficult to describe, it was very cool, very easy and not afraid.
After twenty minutes we landed on the beach.

6. You can rise to reach Mt Korvokado to tysyachetonnomu sorokametrovomu famous monument of Christ the Savior and look at the Rio and the ocean from above. View from there really is very beautiful. You can even ponyatsya to another - Mount Sugarloaf, but we decided that this would be the same and not go.

7. Back in Rio can buy precious stones. Most of the world samotsvetov produce in Brazil, so the prices appreciably cheaper. At the heart of Rio four magazin-muzey H. Stern. Suffice it in any hotel in any large store say "I wish", and immediately you see the car, which you free accommodated in the H. Stern and back. In the shop we met at the entrance, had a tour, described as extracting Gems and that they are doing, then brought in a separate cube treated with coffee cakes ... We buy nothing planned. A seller fifty years and the beautiful Russian with a slight emphasis entirely unexpected question asked: "What color you like?" . Blue-replying. Here we are woken products from blue topaz, one of another crash. It cost say that something is not like one, immediately appear like without this shortcoming. Resist becoming increasingly difficult, because stuff was really good and the price is not Sharon. Finally, we bought a set (earrings, Coulomb, ring) and earrings for daughters. Already seen leaving in the showcase another set, so likeable that we prihvatili without reflection.

8. You can buy souvenirs. Throughout the city sold colored stones made from the bird. The evening along Copacabana built trays are sold at the same birds, but for pennies. More Parrot three to four colors of the stones is worth $ 10-20, young-$ 3. Sale have a wealth of interesting gizmos different, but interesting birds-all.

More in Rio, it was nothing to do, and we flew back to nature at Iguazu waterfalls.

End

Cataracts do Iguassu Iguazu waterfalls - this is not a big flow at the Niagara. Iguacu Falls is a 275 divine excitement waterfalls from 40 to 100 meters high, on the border of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay.
All this grandeur is on the territory of the vast reserve. We stopped at the only hotel within the reserve-Tropicas das Cataratas. All other hotels in the city, 20 minutes. Huge hotel with a five-tower from where you can enjoy sunset, waterfalls and forests. Right from the hotel along the trail are waterfalls, which are actively manipulating Coaty. That such animals, the size of a protein with a long nose that every time they dig something (photo below). People are not afraid. For hotels razveshany plate with the request after nightfall in the woods not to go, because you can meet yaguarom.
It is best seen from the waterfalls Argentina. We took a private tour and, accompanied by a local tour guide went across the border. And, it is true, with the Argentine side, proved much more waterfalls and many could come close enough. One could even drive a boat and try to enjoy the cold shower. We certainly did, leaving my carefully hidden polyethylene package with the T-shirt was confiscated wife and solemnly renamed the dress. Describe waterfalls difficult, they must be seen.



On the way back we drove to the famous Brazilian aviary-seat, which contains an enormous amount of all parrot species and colors, tukanov, Brazilian and other birds. In a special cage and Eden hummingbird flying birds. Birds without objection sit down at the head and allow themselves be photographed.

On the last day, when we were lying by the pool of gaining the courage to go back into all of this gray American daily routine, to our guests came from the forest Iguana. The majority, nearly half of the knee to me, gray with black stains, matovo brilliant, it went around us and be happy poedala sandwiches, which we protyagivali it.

The road ahead remains home and start planning a new tour.

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